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Choir tour to South Africa in 2000.

Information is dealt with under three headings:
INTRODUCTION
OUTLINE ITINERARY AND CONCERT SCHEDULE, WEEK ONE.
(for a write up of Week Two by Suzie Bartle go to SECOND WEEK).
WEBSITES OF POSSIBLE INTEREST (ie on S Africa)

Introduction

As a consequence of the visit to Radcliffe in May 1999, of the Hermanus Choir from the Western Cape region of South Africa, a reciprocal visit was arranged as part of a one week's musical tour to the Cape area. On 19th Feb. 2000 35 of our members, many accompanied by their wives, flew to Cape Town for the start of the tour, during which 5 concerts were sung, the final one being in Hermanus. The following image was downloaded from that town's active website (see next section).


View of Hermanus from Harbour.

Some of the party then returned home while others, making use of the opportunity to see more of South Africa, continued for a further week's tour of the southern and eastern part of this beautiful country. A personal account of the second week, written by Suzie Bartle, daughter of John, is given as a seperate section-'The Young ones'.

Outline itinerary and concert schedule

Week One

Sat. 19th Feb.

1130am party boarded 2 Coaches at the GRANGE, RoT for transfer to London Heathrow and overnight flight to South Africa on SA220.

Sun. 20th Feb.

Arr. in Cape Town 0720am. (A near 12hr flight).
We were met at the airport by a group from the Hermanus Choir who had very kindly set off from their homes early in the morning to give us this welcome. The tour company (Springbok Atlas) then took us, en route to our hotel, on a 1 hour orientation Tour of Cape Town and up to Signal Hill, a well known lookout point. From here are wonderful views of Table Mtn. and the waterfront where we stayed for the next five nights in the Holiday Inn near the Victoria & Alfred waterfront complex.

Aerial view of Cape Town and its setting.

The Waterfront site has been developed from former commercial docks and is now a modern tourist and shopping complex which some of us explored in the afternoon.
In the evening the a briefing was followed by a Group Dinner at the well appointed hotel.

Mon. 21st. Feb.

Daytime coach tour, first to the Table Mtn. cable car station followed by a five minute ascent in the modern, swiss made car which has a rotating floor giving 360 degree views. The very clear weather allowed wonderful views all around from the top. These ranged from the City and docks to the north with Robben Island out to sea, to the Cape peninsular stretching down to Cape Point in the south and westward across False Bay to the rugged mountains hiding Hermanus. (GEOLOGICAL NOTE:- Table Mtn. and the other high parts of the Cape Peninsular are made of many layers of sandstone which lie on a surface eroded into an older granite. This means that the rocks at sea level are often formed of granite, eg the seal rocks at Hout Bay and the boulders at the Penguin colony near Simonstown.)

From the cable car station we were taken on a coach tour of the Cape Peninsular, stopping at Hout Bay for a short cruise to the large seal colony where hundreds of these malodorous but rather friendly looking mammals lie about on low rocks just offshore and fish amongst the extensive kelp (a form of seaweed). we also saw seals in the waterfront area where some have colonised the docks, resting up on rubber fenders and frolicking in the somewhat oily waters.

From Hout Bay we were taken southwards via Constantia, one the first places in SA where wine was produced (17th.C) to the Cape Point nature reserve where some antelope, including Eland and Bontebok, Ostrich and troops of Baboon were seen. This and other areas has been recently been affected by bush fires but new green shoots are visible in the ash. At the southernmost point of the road there is an information/refrehment facility from where we walked to the okd Cape Point Lighthouse overlooking the actual Cape Point. A short ride away took us to the Cape of Good Hope for photos at this point. A troop of baboon have learnt that food is to be had at such areas and regularly ransack cars and food bags.
We returned northwards and stopped near Simonstown which is a naval facility on the east side of the Cape Peninsular and west side of False Bay. Near here is the Boulders Beach Penguin colony where several hundred jackass penguins have taken up residence and can be visited via a system of boardwalks.

Reproduction of the Penguin Reserve Brochure.

After a snack in Simonstown we were back at the hotel by 4pm for a brief rest and preparation for the evening concert.

This evening's concert (with the Hermanus Choir) was held at Panorama Primary School about 30 mins east from central CT in an affluent mainly Afrikaner, suburb. The concert was well attended mainly by parents of this 1200 pupil school and featured several pieces sweetly sung by the school choir, some by Hermanus, and a majority by ourselves and Donna. Our singing of the new SA anthem was a surprise to some of the audience! We were very kindly received by the Headmaster, Mr Zimmerman, who had arranged a post concert reception for us and his guests in the staffroom. To mark our visit we presented a plate bearing the City of Nottingham Arms.

Tues. 22nd Feb.

Most people again took advantage of the tour companies arranged daytime coach tour to the Cape winelands. We first stopped in Paarl, at the KWV cellars where we had a conducted tour seeing some of the largest barrels ever made. Some have a capacity of over 20,000 litres. Charlie Harris lead us in a sing in one of the cellars, a most resonant space! We then travelled into the Franschoek valley, to the town of that name for lunch having visited the Huguenot peace memorial. This and the name Franschoek remind one of the arrival of French protestants 300 years ago bringing with them much knowledge of wine making.

Carved Barrels in the KWV Cellars.

After lunch we travelled through the hills to Stellenbosch, a University town and center of the wine industry. The tree lined streets, easy atmosphere and numerous coffee shops and bars hopefully make for a good learning environment. We returned to CT via the commercial suburb of Belleville where Martin C. collected some pre-ordered geological literature from the Geological Survey office there.

The evening concert was held at St Micheal's Church in Roddenbosch, near the Newlands rugby ground. The audience were very appreciative and Donna gave a spendid performance, her rapport with accompanist Pat Bennett being obvious. This and the next night's concert were convened by John Badminton, one of the several very helpful contacts made by John Bartle which ensured the success of this tour.

The ladies had organised their own outing this evening - to an african theme restaurant complete with maidens singing, dancing and drumming. They in turn were entertained by our ladies who gave a rendition of Si ya Hamba complete with Mrs. Judy Pratt on the Bongos.

Later, back at the hotel a convivial and singing evening ensued.

Radcliff Ladies at work and play.

Wed. 23rd Feb.

Daytime tour to Robben Island, where ex President Mandela spent over 20 years in prison with other colleagues. (Robben=Afrikaans for seal.)
We travelled on a powerful catamaran ferry for 40 minutes with striking views of CT and Table Mtn. from the stern. The island is now a world heritage site and is run as a living museum to mark the experiences of the numerous persons detained for their opposition to Apartheid.

This picture shows the entrance to the former maximum security complex. Some of the ex-detainees and former warders act now as guides, we had Patrick Matajane who had done 20 years on the island. We were first taken on a bus tour of the place with its leper graves, schoolhouse and warders pub and the house of Robert Subukwe, detained here without trial for many years. Most striking was to see and enter the cells where Nelson Mandela and his fellows spent so long. We also visited the lime quarry where they worked for exercise and were able to converse and learn. In the latter years they had almost unlimited access to books and a number gained degrees in law and politics.

Patrick Matajane seemed to enjoy and be proud of his role as educator and survivor. He shows little outward bitterness but still has some fire. He had lost his youth and young manhood through fighting apartheid.
This visit was over too soon as we had to return on a certain ferry, but gave one a vivid feeling of the immense changes that have occurred in South Africa.

The afternoon was free and some rested and others went on another pilgrimage, this time to the hallowed Newlands Rugby Stadium.

The concert this evening was in a mixedrace community area in Witteboom at a fine church hall. The community were very enthusiastic and included Father Andrew and Father Kevin, Catholic Clerics who seemed to have a great rapport with their flock. The concert was very well received and the interval featured large supplies of freshly made Doughnuts, washed down with tea, just the refreshment to inspire our MD!

Thu. 24th Feb.

Daytime excursion with nonwhite guides to see some of the human diversity of this city. We first went to the Bo Kaap Malay area. After hearing from the tour guides a little of the history and ethnology of this mainly muslim area we were then taken to the area formerly known as District 6. This was formerly a multicultural enclave which, in the 60s and 70s fell foul of the crudest excesses of the apartheid system. The houses were bulldozed as a precursor to making it a whites only area under the Group Areas Act and the people mainly forcibly moved to the cape flats, a much less healthy and less covenient location. This action received so much publicity both inside and outside the country that the resettlement never took place, neither were the former inhabitants allowed back. The area is still largely a wasteland with a few churches the only structures remaining. One of these has been converted to a museum housing posters, pictures, murals, maps and other artefacts showing the former nature of the area. We spent 30 minutes here and were able to imagine a fraction of the trauma caused by this act of ethnic cleansing.

We were then transported to Langa Township, a location reserved purely for black people under the apartheid regime. Here migrant labour was housed 6 to a room in very spartan conditions.

Martin C. and township guide Thembile with, in background, some of the squalid informal housing erected by recently arrived immigrants.

Since then a whole spectrum of housing has been developed ranging from lower middle class detached houses to roughly built shanty houses with no facilities what ever. Our guides, who mainly lived in this area, were very informative but the complexities of the local housing deveopment schemes were too much to comprehend on a short visit such as ours. Nevertheless to walk freely in these streets, drink some of the local beer and observe the, often very poor, living conditions at close quarters was, as during the visit to District Six, to be reminded of the realities and problems of the modern South Africa.

The most stiking visit for most of our party was that paid to the Chris Hani School, a collection of concrete block classrooms augmented by steel containers which house a quite thriving primary school under the firm guidence of Mrs Maureen Taylor a tough black lady who's mission, along with that of her fellow teachers, is to equip the children of immigrants (those folk entering the towns from the rural areas) with sufficient basic education that they may enter the state system. The school is named after one of the leaders of the black anti apartheid activists shot by white supremacists in the latter part of the era which lead up to Nelson Mandela's release and subsequent Presidency.
The children have exercise books and pencils and the classrooms are equipped with desks and blackboards. They are reasonably well dressed and some have a form of tribal dress - these are singers and dancers which we were entertained by during the school singing lesson. We in turn sang a couple of numbers and Donna one. Martin Macgilvray then presented the school readers which we had brought with us and these were well received. The final, quite touching, scene was the childern chanting and each holding the hand of a visitor while conducting them to the coach.

Young students in their classroom.

Choir singing for the Chris Hani School.

Following this days most interesting insights into aspects of South Africa not always considered by the casual tourist, we had, in the evening, to try to focus on our singing. Todays event had been arranged by the Cape Male Voice Choir at the Alexandra Hospital, Maitland, as a joint concert. Some pieces were sung en masse and those plus Donna's contribution were greatly appreciated by the audience. An afterconcert social with complimentary refreshments was hosted by these expatriate Welshmen in the Hospital's Harmony Hall which has been leased them as a clubhouse by the hospital. Presentations were exchanged and tribal, mainly Welsh, singing followed til quite late.

Fri. 25th Feb.

By 10am we were checked out of the Hotel which had proved a comfortable home for the past 5 days. The coaches took us east back across the northern cape Flats to the rocky coast line forming the east side of False Bay. Past Gordons Bay and Kogel Bay where we stopped for views and photos of this fine rugged coast and its beaches. On past Cape Hangklip to Betty's Bay where we stopped at the Harold Porter Botanical Garden. a nature reserve and coffee stop. At about 130pm we reached Hermanus and were deposited at the Wine Shop, a wine outlet and modern shopping complex where our hosts had arranged a splendid buffet lunch with wine. The wine shop is a display and outlet for many of the numerous Wines of the Western Cape. They can arrange shipments door to door for around £3 per bottle plus the local cost. Their website, for those interested in their listings, prices and shipping arrangements, is ................ Around 330 pm we were picked up individually by our hosts and taken to their homes for refreshment and a rest prior to returning to Hermanus for the Evening's Grand Concert. The venue was the Grobbelaar Hall which was packed and, seating 5-700, was a great venue for the finale of our tour. Hermanus had arranged for us to sing for a majority of the time and we did well, being definitely "up for it" this night. Donna's contribution was, as ever, the High Spot of the evening and she was extremely affected by her reception. At the end of the formal procedings the respective Chairmen presented token gifts to mark the occasion. The Hermanus Chairman, James Horne, presented us with a large enscribed Abalone Shell mounted in perspex. Abalone are prized shellfish in this area and are under threat due to being yet another natural product thought to have aphrodisiac properties.

After the concert we were taken to the Attie Bishop Rugby Clubhouse for sponsored wine and food. Beer was on sale at the club's bar and a fine "afterglow" ensued. There was much informal singing including "The Old Transvaal" by our hosts and good renditions by both choirs separately and sometimes together. By 1am it was time to return to a various host's homes after what had been a very enjoyable and successful day and especially evening.

Sat. 26th Feb.

This was the last day of the tour for those who booked for only one week and the day when the remainder started on a further week's tour to the Eastern Cape, and two days in a Game Reserve north of Jo'burg. (The catastrophic rains which caused so much misery in Mozambique had also flooded and destroyed much of the infrastructure in the Kruger Park which was the original goal for the final part of this tour).

The day was spent with our individual hosts and the writers experience is recored here as an example. Our hosts lived about 20km east of Hermanus in a village called Stanford. They had a fine old verandered house and a pretty guest cottage about 200 meters away. The plan had been to go on a small boat birdwatching cruise with Champagne picnic brunch on the river and lagoon which is a big feature of this area. However the first rain for two months started and it was decided to take the supplies to the bar of the local pub/guesthouse, set in beautiful gardens with many water features. So we two couples from Radcliffe together with our kind hosts, Basil and Bea Whittaker, enjoyed a leisurely repaste in pleasant surroundings before returning via a tour of tranquil Stanford to their house to pack.
We were due to rendevous with the rest of our group at 4pm so had time for a stroll around the front and environs of Hermanus before then. We also walked on the low cliffs where during the whale watching season (may to november) these huge mammals come very close in shore, see follwing image. During the season the population of Hermanus triples as it is one of the best places in the world for land based whale watching.

Reproduction of a photo showing how close the whales come.

After a visit to the market and a sample of locally brewed beer it was time to return to the Wine Shop Complex to say our final farewells and board the buses to the Airport. En route back to CT we went via the Sir Lowrey's Pass and had fine views of the northern part of False Bay with CT and Table Mtn. in the background.
Flight SA 220 departed on time at 2120 and we had an uneventful flight back to a grey and overcast UK, arriving at about 7am on Sunday 27th., to find the coach waiting to transport us back to Radcliffe which we reached by 1130.

AT THIS POINT THE WRITER WISHES TO RECORD A VERY LARGE VOTE OF THANKS TO OUR HON.SEC., JOHN BARTLE, FOR THE TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF WORK AND TIME HE PUT IN OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS IN ORDER TO MAKE THIS TOUR A SUCCESS.

For an account of the second week see Suzie Bartle's 'The Young Ones'.

Websites of possible interest

The Choir spent the first 5 days in Cape Town in a hotel on the waterfront, a modern tourist/leisure complex created out of the old docks and warehouses originally serving as the entry to the city. A link to a website describing this area's many amenities is - WATERFRONT.

The village/town of Hermanus is a very well known seaside resort some 50 miles east of Cape Town and famous, inter alia, for the large number of whales which congregate close offshore at certain times of the year. This very interesting centre's rather jumbled, but informative, website can be accessed at HERMANUS.

A fourday outline weather forecast for Cape Town and other South African cities can be accessed at WEATHER.

Turning to the 2nd week of the tour which will include visits to several wildlife reserves, the S.A. Tourist authorities have set up a network of video cameras, some manned, some unmanned, which record activities of wildlife at waterholes or other strategic locations. Still images (pictures) from these sites are regularly transferred to the net and the whole incorporated into what they somewhat fancifully call a "virtual safari". A description of the system and links to these "webcams" can be found at website address www.safricam.co.za. We have found these sites slow to download but if you have some time and interest try our link to WILDLIFEWEBCAMS.

The following image of a "White" Rhino in the Hluehue reserve in Natal was downloaded from that website midday wednesday, 26th Feb., and was only taken on the 25th.

Return to main S.Africa page. Return to top of Choir Site.